Château du Hureau

As some of you know, Cabernet Franc holds a special place in my heart. It’s a grape that offers bracing acidity and grace, often showcasing a spectrum of herbal and fruit notes. With its natural complexity, balanced by lower alcohol levels, particularly when made in the Loire Valley, it’s a varietal that keeps me coming back. Visiting the renowned Saumur-Champigny region and Château du Hureau was an opportunity I eagerly anticipated.

Located near the banks of the Loire, about four miles east of Saumur, Château du Hureau is steeped in history and charm. The estate, one of the few wine-producing châteaux in the Loire Valley, has been in the Vatan family for generations. Today, it is run by fifth-generation vigneron Philippe Vatan alongside his daughter Agathe. The château itself, with its Loire-esque architecture featuring an octagonal tower, mansard roofs, and the iconic boar-headed weathervane from which the estate takes its name, is a striking sight upon arrival.

The vineyards of Château du Hureau stretch across 17 hectares, comprising 21 individual parcels scattered throughout the appellation in Dampierre-sur-Loire, Souzay, Champigny, and Saumur. These vineyards are planted on tuffeau—a soft, chalky limestone from the Cretaceous period—that forms a massive shelf bordering the back of the château. This same tufa-limestone subsoil is what gives the Saumur-Champigny wines their distinctive minerality, a hallmark of the region.

Our visit began with a warm welcome from Philippe Vatan, a man whose wealth of knowledge and passion for his craft were evident from the start. Philippe is not only a talented winemaker but also deeply connected to the land and the history of the estate. He led us on a tour of the château’s 13th-century cellars, carved deep into the tufa-limestone rock. The cool, atmospheric caves, filled with barrels and aging bottles, were a stunning backdrop for the wines we were about to explore.

We began with their Argile, a Chenin Blanc made from a blend of four parcels. Bright, zippy, and citrusy, it was the perfect start on a summer day, showcasing the freshness and elegance for which Loire Chenin Blancs are known. Philippe explained how the Argile is fermented in tanks and then aged in a combination of tanks and large wood, allowing it to retain its vibrant acidity while gaining texture and depth.

Next, we moved on to barrel and tank samples of their reds. Each one was a stellar hit, with dark, intense fruit, bracing acidity, and a distinct minerality that tied them back to the tuffeau soils. As we transitioned to the stone-floored tasting room, we tasted through the various Cabernet Franc cuvées, including new vintages of wines I carry back home. These wines, crafted with meticulous care, were a testament to the estate’s organic farming practices and Philippe’s dedication to quality. The reds were dark and sappy yet balanced, each wine a reflection of its unique parcel and vintage.

Among the reds, the Tuffe, a blend of 14 tuffeau-dominant parcels, stood out for its delicious, approachable style. We also tried the more structured single-parcel cuvées, including Fours à Chaux, Les Fevettes, and Lisagathe, each offering a deeper exploration of the estate’s terroir. Philippe’s transition to organic viticulture in the mid-2000s, officially certified in 2007, has elevated the wines’ purity, transparency, and textural complexity.

After the tasting, we took a long, beautiful walk along an ancient stone path leading to the vineyards. Philippe guided us through rows of organically farmed vines, sharing insights into their age, current state, and how the diverse soils—from fertile clay to sandy topsoil—contribute to the wines’ unique expressions. The care taken in the vineyard is meticulous: thick grass grows between vine rows to promote biodiversity, and the vines are hand-pruned, crop-thinned, and hand-harvested. This commitment ensures only the best fruit makes it to the cellar.

The wines of Château du Hureau are truly captivating. From the refreshing Chenin Blancs to the structured, mineral-driven Cabernet Francs, each bottle tells a story of the estate’s history, terroir, and the dedication of the Vatan family. This visit not only deepened my appreciation for Saumur-Champigny but also reinforced why Cabernet Franc continues to be one of my favorite grapes.