Dinner in Beaujolais at L’Auberge du Cep, Fleurie

We left Savoie behind and made our way to the village of Fleurie, tucked into the heart of the Beaujolais wine region. Before settling in at our bed and breakfast, we went out for dinner at a well-known restaurant in the area: L’Auberge du Cep.

The dining room, which has since been remodeled, still carried some of its classic charm when we visited. Burgundy carpet, white tablecloths, and contemporary gray chairs filled a space that felt somewhere between an old-fashioned banquet room and a quietly confident fine dining space. I expected a rustic, traditional meal typical of village France—but I couldn’t have been more surprised by what came out of the kitchen.

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Every dish was plated with precision and restraint, the kind of presentation you expect from a Michelin-starred kitchen. As it turns out, the restaurant had just earned its first Michelin star in 2018—the very year we visited—and the level of execution reflected that recognition.

The meal began with an amuse-bouche: a vibrant green soup served in tall shot glasses, topped with a delicate foam and paired with small nut-crusted cakes. Bright, playful, and layered.

We selected two wines from the region, each special in its own way. The 2016 Beaujolais Blanc from Clos de Rochebonne (Château Thivin) was a particular treat—Beaujolais Blanc, made from Chardonnay, is rarely exported to the United States. Light and refreshing, it was exactly the kind of wine you want to start a meal with. The 2017 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie was equally exciting to see on the list, as this cru bottling is a tough one to track down in the U.S. Both wines highlighted why Beaujolais, when done well, deserves more attention for both its reds and whites.

My starter was a pâté en croûte, beautifully made with layered meats, foie gras, and asparagus, served alongside a smooth mustard-colored purée and dressed greens. For the main course: quail with mushrooms, pearl onions, and a glossy reduction, finished with a light herbal foam. Every component was in place, with confident seasoning and a quietly complex sauce that lingered.

Dessert brought contrasting textures and temperatures—a scoop of berry sorbet, piped chocolate mousse, crisp tuiles, and dots of dark coulis arranged with painterly care. Alongside it, a cold grated cheese-like dish with nuts and herbs—a surprising and memorable final note.

Chef Aurélien Merot, who took over in 2015, was clearly hitting his stride that year. His cooking blends tradition and terroir with modern touches—using game, poultry, mushrooms, and local wines as the foundation for thoughtful, expressive dishes.

L’Auberge du Cep offered us a meal that felt far more refined than the setting initially let on. And that contrast made it all the more memorable: a small village, an understated dining room, and food that quietly announced the arrival of a serious talent.

L’Auberge du Cep11 rue des Quatre Vents, 69820 Fleurie, France