Tasting Beaujolais Cru Wines at Domaine Gaget in Morgon and Fleurie

One of the most memorable wine visits I’ve ever had took place at Domaine Gaget in Morgon, Beaujolais. The morning began at 9 a.m. with vineyard visits around Morgon alongside Mickael Gaget. We walked through several prized sites, including their holdings in the famed Côte du Py, Morgon’s most iconic lieu-dit. Known for its volcanic schist soils, this hillside produces wines with deep structure, dark fruit, and savory undertones that set Morgon apart from the other Beaujolais crus. After our much needed morning walk due to last nights restaurant festivities, we made our way down to the cellars. Even in barrel, the samples showed a lively freshness and acid backbone, though still a bit disjointed as they were so young.

By mid-morning, we drove to Fleurie, where the tone shifted. Fleurie’s wines tend to be more delicate and perfumed. Think florals, red berries, and elegance over power. One of the most striking spots in all of Beaujolais is here: the La Madone vineyard, perched high above the village and capped by a small chapel. The chapel of La Madone is not only a visual landmark but a symbol of Fleurie’s identity, its position offers panoramic views and its vineyards, planted on pink granite soils, yield some of the region’s most graceful expressions of Gamay.

At the very top of La Madone, Mickael laid out an incredible vineyard picnic. With charcuterie, cheeses, bread, cherry tomatoes, and a full lineup of wines, we tasted through 15 bottlings, or at least thats all I took notes for! It was a feast for the senses, and the setting couldn’t have been more stunning. Highlights included the 2015 Morgon Côte du Py—spicy, rich, and loaded with dark berries and cassis—and the 2014 Cuvee Joseph, a wine crafted from the free-run juice of a select old vine parcel. We also tasted the 2015 version, clocking in at 15.5% alcohol. As Mickael quipped, “We are not in Beaujolais,” and yet the quality and depth were undeniable. Another standout was the 2013 Fleurie La Madone. Highly aromatic and elegant, it showed the aging potential and finesse that define the cru.

We wrapped the day at the winery, where Mickael’s father joined us to page through decades of family records, photos, and handwritten notes. Domaine Gaget is very much a family affair, with a deep-rooted presence in Morgon and an ethos that respects both terroir and tradition. This visit was a reminder of why I travel to taste, there’s nothing like being on the ground, meeting the people, and understanding the land behind the wines.