Visiting Justin Girardin in Santenay, Burgundy

Our visit to Justin Girardin’s cellar in Santenay took us deep into one of the most traditional yet quietly evolving corners of Burgundy. I had been selling Justin’s wines for years, so it was meaningful to finally meet him in person. We were first greeted by his mother, who led us downstairs into the cool, dimly lit tasting room, where maps of the Côte de Beaune vineyards were spread across the table. Justin joined us soon after. He appeared tall, wiry, and focused, with the calm energy of someone deeply in tune with his vines.

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Justin represents the 13th generation of the Girardin family, a lineage that stretches back to 1570. His domaine was once part of the larger family estate before he formally established his own label in 2012. Today, he farms about 17 hectares across some of Burgundy’s most respected appellations, including Santenay, Savigny-lès-Beaune, Pommard, and Chassagne-Montrachet. His approach is grounded in organic practices, minimal intervention, and a respect for each vineyard’s identity.

We began the tasting with the 2016 Bourgogne Chardonnay, which I will eventually pour by the glass at my restaurants, less rich than some previous vintages, more classic and restrained, with bright acidity and notes of lemon peel and apple. As Justin put it, “When a vintage is too easy, it’s boring.” The 2016 Santenay Blanc followed, mineral-driven with a long finish and just a touch of oak, a white Burgundy with precision and energy. As we talked whites, he addressed premature oxidation head-on: “For me, having a good cork is important,” he said, emphasizing closure quality and careful cellar work to ensure longevity.

From there, we moved into reds. The 2016 Bourgogne Pinot Noir showed lean red fruits of strawberries and cherries, a lively, refreshing entry point into his range. The 2016 Santenay Village Vieilles Vignes, aged entirely in oak barrels, brought more depth and spice, its structure balanced by fresh acidity. The Premier Cru La Maladière was elegant and aromatic, with red fruits and floral lift, while the 2016 Clos Rousseau combined three Clos parcels into a seamless whole, more generous and complex, with supple tannins and layered texture.

We finished with the 2016 Pommard, a wine that surprised me. Fresher and more gracious than many from the appellation, it blended fruit from four parcels, two higher up for brightness and two at the base for structure. It captured the essence of rustic Pommard while staying elegant and refined. This wine was approachable for Pommard.

Justin’s philosophy is clear: precision over power, and patience over showiness. He believes that “a vine becomes truly interesting after 25 years,” and his commitment to site expression shows in every glass. The wines are built on purity and clarity rather than opulence, honest reflections of Santenay’s limestone and clay slopes.