Matthieu Barret: The Oldest Way, Made New

It is a cold January afternoon in Cornas and I am sitting in an old provincial salon, floral wallpaper, upholstered antique chairs, listening to Matthieu Barret explain how he has transformed his family's domaine away from the conventional Rhône style. It all stems from his mantra: "I prefer to be alive, like my wines."

Matthieu is a 7th generation vigneron, starting with the family winery in Cornas in 1997. At that time the domaine was fairly standard, with oak barrels and machines in the vineyards. Everything has been revamped, starting with organic and biodynamic viticulture and an entire ecosystem built around their land. Horses and backbreaking labor have replaced machines in the vineyard. In the cellar you will find very little oak. Mostly concrete and clay amphorae, extremely rare for Cornas and the Northern Rhône.

All this work backs up what is in the glass: fresh, complex, unadulterated Syrah. These wines are so easy to drink right out of the bottle, another rarity for Cornas, which doesn't really express itself in youth. Matthieu makes more than just Cornas. I tasted through the 2016 Côtes du Rhône rouge and blanc (the Bear label, called Petit Ours), both fresh and lively on the palate. The 2016 Côte Rôtie was better on the palate than the nose. Needs some time in bottle. My personal favorite is called No Wines Land, a vineyard between Cornas and Saint-Joseph with no AOP appellation. It is pure Syrah, with notes of olive tapenade, herbs, and smoked meat, but full of acidity, which makes it a great food wine. Later in my trip I ordered a bottle in Paris at Le Timbre, sadly no longer open, and it made the meal.

After the salon we walked through his new concrete winery, full of amphorae. He is bringing back the original form of winemaking, which is now considered new. His modern labels and black corks are a nod to the future, but the wines, like the old salon, are a nod to the past.