It is a cold January afternoon in Cornas and I am sitting in an old provincial salon, floral wallpaper, upholstered antique chairs, listening to Matthieu Barret explain how he has transformed his family's domaine away from the conventional Rhône style. It all stems from his mantra: "I prefer to be alive, like my wines." Matthieu is a 7th generation vigneron, starting with the family winery in Cornas in 1997. At that time the domaine was fairly standard, with oak barrels and m